We arrived here on Sunday, having been tipped out of the plane into 30 degree heat. After 5 days of exploration, I am fully besotted with this city of marvels. But what makes it so special?
1) the fishermen on the main pedestrian/ tourist bridge. Walking along, you have to be careful not to trip over the lines of fishing rods and buckets of tiny sea creatures. I don't know who buys their smelly offerings but the view is enchanting.
2) the cats! Oh, the cats. Just like India was overrun by ownerless dogs, in Istanbul the cats are in charge. They guard shop fronts, staring in longingly at the coffee shops after hours. And at nighttime, all they do is fight and cry. Silly teenage cats.
3) the FOOD. I hated the food last summer in Asia. All I wanted was peanut butter on toast. In Istanbul however, the streets are my oyster. Roasted chestnut stands fill the squares with the smell of autumn, there are burger places aplenty, and traditional Turkish dishes (even things which aren't doner!) constituting an evening meal for under £3. The bread is the softest, bounciest I have ever had.
4)the buildings, and the seasidey location. It's beautiful. Fairytale minarets, mosques that used to be cathedrals (they just painted over the Jesus mosaics) and secretive side streets.
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